![]() That crack may have done that for you already so consider that possibility too. ![]() If that is the case I would say you need to open the position that the action sits in the stock a bit, very little not much. My thoughts on the crack running forward is that action may not sit just right in the stock and that with the act of shooting has caused the crack to radiate forward. I use a thin super glue (Loctite brand non-gel) but if you have to go at it from the outside you may only be able to use Elmer's glue to make sure it can be wiped off the finish with a wet cloth. The biggest problem with it going forward (to my eyes it looks forward) is that it may not be possible to leach or get glue into that crack from the inside of the stock. Looking at the direction it goes I want to ask if the action fits tightly into the stock? I ask because they usually crack toward the rear when they radiate from the recoil lug. ![]() I kind of pale when I see a crack radiating in anyway from the recoil lug which that one seems to do. If you want to use brass or bronze wool or brush have it Oh and it usually will take awhile and a couple of times with that stuff. JMO.jak.4 oooo steel wool will not hurt anything with oil and I have used it for years. Acraglas is a wonderful product and if your stock damage was open/straight enough, you could work it into the crack with thread or dental floss - doesn't look like an option for you. Remove any "wedge" and clamp immediately with soft jaw clamps. If you can spread the crack as Chuck suggested, again, more's the better. Before you use that method, and since the crack goes clean thru into the barrel channel, when you get your super glue, measure the tapered nozzle, select a drill bit that will allow a tight seal on the nozzle and drill a couple of shallow holes, (deep enought to reach the crack), from inside the channel into the major area of the crack, then, again, from the barrel channel, press the nozzle of the the super glue tightly into the drilled holes and squeeze the bottle, forcing glue to spread into the crack - if a little runs out the outside of the crack, more's the better. If you select a glue with a high flow rate, capillary action alone will draw "some" glue into the crack. Peter's method provides a good final finish and should be used for final finish. I've sold that rifle few years ago and the crack never reappeared, even thought that rifle had more than 3500 full loads 500gr/2680-2720fps. 460 Weatherby Mk5 in 1982 when the stock splited after about 60 rounds. ![]() I used exactly the above mentioned technique on my very first rifle a. A professional quality job's done in a mater of few minutes.Īir or an Aceton is not needed. It will finnish the stock like you've never seen before. As it has the same wood filling you won't even recognised it was ever there. Don't be scared to rub/sand with sandpaper. Blow over it with your mouth and repeate several times until the crack is fully filled and finnish. By one or two tube (2ml) of the cheapest Chinese made Super glue with a nozzle, the runnier the better (Cyoanoacrylate) and one or two sheets of 400- 600 grit sandpaper.Ĭut/tear the sandpaper into 35x35mm pieces.Īpply a very tiny amount of the Super glue with the tiny nozzle as deep as possible and immediately sand over the stock crack to create a fine sawdust to stick into the Super glue.
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